Researchers in the United States are presenting a textile finish based on cottonseed oil. The goal is to make cotton water-repellent and wrinkle-resistant without formaldehyde and PFAS. The initial results will be shared this week at ACS Fall 2025 in Washington. According to the researchers, a simple chemical step can deliver similar functionality to traditional finishes, with a safer profile for both humans and the environment.
Finishing without the known problem substances
Formaldehyde resins and fluorinated coatings have been providing the required functions for years, but are under pressure due to health and environmental concerns. Instead, the team opted for epoxidized cottonseed oil, derived from the same supply chain as the fiber. PhD candidate Taylor Kanipe says that epoxidized vegetable oils have a wide range of applications, and that cotton is a logical first case.
The chemical route
The oil is infused with epoxy groups that bond to the cellulose fibers and also interconnect them. This creates a thin network on the fibers that repels moisture and helps retain shape. This approach builds on previous work with vegetable oils, now with an oil available in large volumes as a byproduct of the cotton production chain.
First results from the lab
The binding of the oil to the fabric was confirmed using infrared spectroscopy. Water repellency was measured using the contact angle of a water droplet on the surface. Untreated cotton absorbed water immediately. Treated fabric reached 125 degrees Celsius, a significant increase in water repellency. Further tests on tear strength, wash resistance, and wrinkle recovery are planned.
Next step is a water-based process
The method now presented was developed in a solvent environment. The team aims to develop a water-based application that fits existing dyeing and finishing lines. Professor Richard Venditti emphasizes that the goal is a water-based process that can run without hazardous substances. If successful, validation will follow for line speed, hand feel, and color stability.
Regulations put pressure on PFAS in textiles
Brands and breeders in Europe are accelerating their search for PFAS-free alternatives due to stricter regulations and purchasing criteria. A finish that aligns with existing cotton processes and uses raw materials from the same supply chain can quickly gain traction, provided its performance remains consistent throughout washing and use.
Source: acs.org
Image by JUAN PABLO GONZALES DELGADO from Pixabay
