The European textile sector has taken a big hit in recent decades due to competition from cheaper Asian producers. But there is hope on the horizon. According to Sanabel Abdulbawab, researcher sustainable textile chains at Wageningen Food & Biobased Research, Europe can develop a new, sustainable textile sector by investing in natural biobased fibres. “Europe can take the lead in the transition to a biobased textile industry,” says Abdulbawab.
The international textile chain
Nowadays, clothing is produced in complex international chains. Fibers are produced in one country, processed in another and finally spun and processed into textiles elsewhere. Europe plays only a small role in this. Lower wages, lower production costs and less strict regulations in other parts of the world make competition difficult. In addition, two-thirds of current textiles consist of synthetic polyester, largely controlled by a few large players on the world market.
The power of natural fibers
According to Abdulbawab, Europe's future lies in the production of natural, sustainably produced fibres. Fibre-rich crops such as flax, hemp, nettle and artificial cellulose fibres can play an important role in this. In addition, there are already companies in Europe that are active in recycling discarded cotton, such as Saxcell from Enschede. This company converts textile waste into lyocell, a biobased cellulose fibre, using an innovative chemical process.
In addition to recycling, biobased polyester, made from plants, offers opportunities as a niche product. Although spinning and dyeing of fibres may take place outside Europe, control over fibre production and resources can help the EU regain its market position.
Challenges and opportunities
The challenge remains the price. Clothing made from biobased fibres is currently more expensive than cheap polyester alternatives from Asia. These polyester textiles are often of poor quality, which leads to overconsumption and waste. The average European uses 26 kilos of textiles annually and throws away 16 kilos, most of which is dumped, burned or exported to low-wage countries. Only 10% is recycled, and chemical recycling of mixed textiles is still too complex and expensive.
However, the transition to sustainable materials offers opportunities. Abdulbawab sees an important role for the European Union: “The EU can support producers with legislation and subsidies. Think of subsidies for fiber production from hemp, tax on fossil fibers and encouraging the reuse of PET in furniture.”
Innovation in the spotlight
Innovation plays a crucial role in this transition. During the recently organized Rethink Textile Hackathon of Wageningen University & Research, student teams presented innovative applications for textiles from natural resources and waste. Abdulbawab emphasized the importance of such initiatives to help the industry move forward during her presentation on the final day.
“Europe has the opportunity to become a global leader in sustainable textile production,” Abdulbawab concludes. “The road ahead is challenging, but with the right policies, innovation and a focus on natural fibres, the EU can build a new, green textile sector.”
Source: WUR
