New research starts into plant-based raw materials
Cosmetics based on plant-based raw materials that are made and harvested in a high-tech way. That is the approach of the innovative InCoCells project spearheaded by Europe and Flanders. By investing in new research, the various governments want to give agricultural waste flows a new purpose and, among other things, make animal testing unnecessary. New opportunities for agriculture therefore also lie in cosmetics.
Over the next four years, 17 partners from 11 European countries will participate in a scientific research project into plant-based raw materials for the production of cosmetics. In Flanders, ILVO, VIB and AddEssens are taking up the challenge of looking for innovative, high-quality cosmetic products from plants and plant cells (InnCoCells).
The aim of the research is to discover as many active plant-based components as possible and to develop them into producible ingredients for cosmetic products. The researchers strive for high quality and an acceptable environmental impact. “We put the needs of producers and consumers first and ensure that these new cosmetic ingredients are suitable for the market,” it said.
Milking plants
The different cultivation methods for the plants to be examined are very diverse. They can arise from open-field cultivation, greenhouse cultivation or even from agricultural residual flows. Plant cell cultures, including aeroponics culture or air culture installations, are also possible.
With 'air cultivation' the plants are fed without soil and substrate via a mist system (=aeroponics). They then secrete the desired substances through their roots (rhizosecretion), and can then be continuously milked, as it were.
Both fruit and vegetables are eligible for this. Tomato, carrot or apple are no exception. Herbs such as basil, ginger and lemon balm are also possible. Hops, licorice or geranium are also on the long research list.
Tested on volunteers
“In the first phase of the research we try to map as many plant species and parts as possible,” says Goossens. “We look for relevant ingredients and corresponding production methods.” Accordingly, the eleven countries involved evaluate the plants examined and their derived ingredients. These are tested, among other things, for the presence of bioactive components with relevant functional properties. The researchers hope to discover the activity of at least fifty new ingredients.
In the next stage, the team will map possible biological reactions of the raw materials using cell-based tests. “None of the products are tested on animals or contain animal products,” the institutions involved assure. Only plant extracts and natural products with an environmentally friendly production potential are ultimately developed and tested on human volunteers.
Production processes
This research should further lead to twenty optimized production processes. These can therefore be cell cultures or cultivations of the entire plant. In addition, they aim for a zero-waste approach in the processing processes and another ten agrifood residual flows will be analyzed for their potential as starting materials. “A feasibility study and a sustainability analysis are also planned for this,” says Bart Van Droogenbroeck of ILVO.
Who does what?
InnCoCells works with an EU budget of 7,9 million euros. Partner VTT from Finland coordinates everything. The 16 other partners are a mix of academic institutions (universities and research organizations) and SMEs. Furthermore, one large industrial partner, a non-profit organization and a cosmetics sector organization are also participating.
ILVO will mainly focus on the bio-refining of the supplied plant material. In other words: purifying relevant components. “ILVO focuses on plant species that are important to Flanders: tomatoes, residual flows of chicory and chicory (Cichorium) and perhaps also on hops and marigold,” it says.
VIB mainly coordinates the bioprospecting and optimization of plants and cell lines. It will develop and assemble a universal set of genetic and non-genetic tools. These should promote the production of plant biomass and the accumulation of bioactive ingredients. VIB uses tomatoes as a model system for this.
Finally, AddEssens wants to focus on extracting high-quality components from herbs such as oregano, lemon balm, hemp and black cumin. These have not yet been sufficiently investigated for their potential to enrich natural cosmetics. The company also wants to expand its knowledge of residual flows in the processing of red fruit, an important by-product from the food industry.
Source: Vilt.be
